I am doing a wind chime using stained glass (cathedral and clear) pieces. I will drill 2 holes in each piece and use fishing line or copper wire to connect the pieces, so I will not be soldering the edges, which I have ground to smooth off. I was wondering if I should try to polish the edges to get them shiny, or just leave them matte (just like them come off the grinder after cleaning). I have no idea how to "polish" the edges, so any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated. TIA, Miki
Windchime - How To Polish Cut Glass Edges?
Posted 25 May 2017 - 11:35 AM
To get them shiny again you will either need to fire polish them, or grind/sand/polish with multiple grit papers and wheels.
I would suggest just leaving them, you could put a coat of clear nail polish on the edges, that might keep them shiny.....and much simpler than the options listed above!
Posted 07 July 2017 - 06:40 AM
A finer grit head will leave a smoother finish.
Folks will notice the overall appearance & sounds it makes more than the edge's polish. I think the matte edge left by the grinder helps to "frame" the shape of the glass.
If you want to try the nail polish mentioned above, I would try a sample piece with nail polish on the edge & tap it before applying the polish & after to see what effect it would make on the tone & clarity. (If you do try this, please let us know what you think.)
Posted 07 July 2017 - 11:08 PM
No one is going to notice the edges. Ask your self if you would notice on one that some one else made. I know I would not. I would be more interested in the colors and design.
Posted 08 July 2017 - 05:33 PM
I've come around to making chimes from two pieces fused together, which naturally produces a rounded edge-- nice sound too. I often fire polish single-layer pieces as well -- again, the edges round nicely but the overall shape may become a bit distorted (which can be a desired effect, of course). I drill the piece for mounting, but with two layers you can also embed a wire hanger. Grinding the edges down a bit works, of course, but though it's another whole step in fabrication the wholly rounded edge really cuts down the chipping ( and worse) that occurs as the pieces clink against each other. I also find that when a kiln-worked piece breaks it does just that -- neatly, without any shards or slivers.
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