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Breaker cutting kindergarten

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#1 MargaretS

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 09:32 AM

So I am setting up and starting a little workshop to teach my mom and we have encountered an issue.

After scoring the glass, we tried to use our new breaker to break it and it wasnt working. I tried applying a bit more pressure and the glass shattered.

Any tips to solving this issue? I only have one score line. At the workshop I use at WVU all of the breakers have some amount of hot glue on them, would this help?

#2 Boris_USA

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 10:45 AM

So I am setting up and starting a little workshop to teach my mom and we have encountered an issue.

After scoring the glass, we tried to use our new breaker to break it and it wasnt working. I tried applying a bit more pressure and the glass shattered.

Any tips to solving this issue? I only have one score line. At the workshop I use at WVU all of the breakers have some amount of hot glue on them, would this help?

 

Are you using the breaker with the inside curve on top of the score line? Is it a plier type breaker?


 



#3 John

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 08:14 PM

Margaret, to go a step further than Boris, which of these options are you using?  (It would be easier if we could post photos but I will try to describe them.)

 

Running pliers - If metal, both jaws when you are looking at the end are "frowning" & have a small bolt which prevent the jaws from closing fully.  Jaws come with a plastic coating.  If nylon/plastic, there is one centrally located bump or line on the bottom jaw & a bump or raised line on each side of the bottom of the top jaw.  The Silberschnitt running pliers have metal handles but pivoting nylon jaws. 

 

Grozer/Breaker Pliers - There is one flat jaw & one curved when viewed from the side. Jaws are generally serrated but may be smooth.  There will not be a coating on the jaws.

 

Breaking Pliers - Jaws are flat, smooth width can range from 1/2" to 1" wide.  The ends will meet in a straight line across but will have a gap once away from the edge.  This is to prevent the area closer to the pivot point from closing on the glass instead of the outer edge.  This allows the flat surface of the jaw to have full contact while breaking glass.  The jaws generally are bare metal.

 

I have seen folks using drops of hot glue on the inside of the breaking pliers to turn them into running pliers like noted in the underlined description above.

 

John



#4 MargaretS

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 08:43 PM

We are using running plyers

#5 Boris_USA

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 09:11 PM

We are using running plyers

 

You are using them with the inside curve over the score, and the outside hump under the glass? That's the only reason I can think of, to cause glass to shatter. I have a bout a dozen running pliers, and never had that problem .
 



#6 FantasyStainedGlass

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Posted 03 February 2019 - 10:40 AM

My running pliers also have a screw on them to set the height of the glass when I go to break the score line.  If not set right, the pliers do not work correctly.  When I first stated doing stained glass, I did have a 1/2 sheet of ring mottle glass explode when I went to break the score line and glass flew all over the shop.  I have never had that happen again and was told it had to do with the way the glass had been made and had a fault with it, so I was told.



#7 John

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Posted 04 February 2019 - 02:59 PM

Running pliers are used with the little bolt or jaw stop pointed up. 

   -  To set the bolt, close a corner of the jaws on the glass & screw the bolt in until it reaches the bottom jaw then back it out 1/4" turn.  (The bolt should turn freely with your fingers.)

   -  There is generally a line in top of the middle of the jaw in line with the handles.  This line is centered over the the score line which stays on top of the glass. You only need to place the glass into the jaws around 1/2".  Keep the handles in line with the score line.

   -  Start with gentle pressure gradually increasing the pressure until you hear a light "pop" or the glass separates which ever comes first.  If you hear the "pop", then go to the other end of your score and try to complete the score there.  If you get a "pop" from both ends but it still doesn't separate, a folded paper towel on the table & turn the glass over to where the score line is face down against the paper towel.  Use your finger tips directly over the score line & press down to finish running the score.

   -  With the score line under the alignment line on the running plier jaws, the glass you are breaking off needs to be wide enough that it goes to the outside of the jaws or wider.  If not, use Grozer/Breaker or Breaking pliers.

   -  If you run your cutter off the edge of the glass when you score, then try the score from that side. 

 

The quality of the score will make a big difference as well.  If you see more than a light score line your applying too much pressure on your cutter & are creating sideways fissures.  This allows the fracture line to leave the intended score line.

 

Again, when running a score line, start with gentle pressure & then increase it.  If you apply a quick hard pressure it is harder for the fracture to follow the score line & it will frequently fail.

 

Please let us know how it goes.

 

John



#8 Boris_USA

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 09:13 PM

Also, as a matter of information, you can get a piece of glass that's so riddled with air bubbles that it will not cut and break in score lines. I just ha a full sheet of amber and white swirl that I could not use a piece of. Each time I scored, the break would go right or left each time or there would be several breaks in different directions. Could not save a single piece. Does not happen often. I should have cut the pieces out on my ring saw or my bad saw.







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